Seoul, South Korea

Jay and I traveled to Seoul, South Korea as part of our vacation last October. After about a week in Japan (Tokyo and Kyoto), we flew to Seoul for a few days to explore this really vibrant city. As fans of K-pop and lovers of Korean food (bibimbap for days), we were very excited to visit Seoul, and to also make a trip up to the demilitarized zone (DMZ) to see the border with North Korea. This guide should give you a fairly good snapshot of Seoul as well as tips if you would also like to make a trip to the DMZ (if you're interested in foreign policy & world affairs like us, I'd highly recommend it), but also keep in mind that Seoul is huge, we didn't speak the language, and know there is so much more to see and do.

First, your Seoul 101...

1. Google Maps doesn't work. This was a jarring discovery for us, since Google Maps saved OUR LIFE in Japan and was how we found our way everywhere. This restriction is due to South Korea's national security laws, designed to protect the country against infiltration from North Korea (which many still say is outdated). While Google Maps does work to a certain extent, you either can't find a lot of locations on the map OR the maps won't direct you the way it does normally. You can try Daum or Naver Maps instead, or, if your husband is a human compass like mine, you can just put the address in and and find your spot old school, like we did.
2. Take the subway. The subway is fairly extensive and easy to navigate and was how we got around the city. You can buy journey passes called T-money - which you can buy at the subway station, airports, or at most convenience stores - and they work for the subway and public buses. More information here.
3. Similar to Japan, NO TIPPING. There isn't a tipping culture here, and if you do try to tip anyway it can be perceived as rude or weird.
4. Unlike Japan, where taxis are expensive, taxis in Seoul are relatively cheap and a good way to get around the city (if you're not taking the subway or bus - we mostly walked or took the subway places).
5. Words I'd use to describe Seoul: Vibrant, slightly brash, unapologetic, fun, funky, and cool. Traveling from Tokyo to Seoul was a bit jarring given how polite Japan is, but there's an authenticity in Seoul that was refreshing.

Where we stayed:

Similar to our Japan trip, Jay and I did Airbnb while in Seoul, and I highly recommend finding a listing that suits you, as there are so many options. Our Airbnb (see listing here) came with a washer/dryer (a major plus after traveling for a week), portable Wifi, and was very clean. However, while the location was great in terms of its proximity to major tourist attractions (fairly walkable and close to a central subway stop), Myeong-dong wasn't a great area - overly touristy and loud, which are all of the things I hate when traveling. Seoul is a *huge* city, so if I was going back, I'd avoid staying in Myeong-dong and instead stay in Hongdae, Samcheongdong (the artsy area), or Insadong. 

Where we got our Seoul Tips:

Unlike our Japan trip, where we had an overwhelming array of tips from friends who just visited Tokyo and cool insider guides, most of my Seoul tips came from the NY Times 36 Hours (which came out a few months before our trip in July 2016), an expat blog called Eat Your Kimchi (the couple now resides in Japan), and a few friends (special shout-out to Garrett & Niels, who live in Seoul, took us out one night, and were a wealth of knowledge when it came to the city). 

Things to Do/Eat/See in Seoul

1. It's touristy, but when in Seoul, visit the Gyeongbokgung Palace, one of the most iconic sights in the city. It's beautiful, with mountains in the background (or foreground, depending on your perspective), and very cool to learn about the history of the country through the lens of this palace. Try to time your trip with the Changing of the Guard ceremony (at the top of the hour), and note that it is closed on Tuesdays.
2. Once you're done at the palace, wander around the nearby Samcheong-dong neighborhood for some people watching and gallery hopping. The area is very trendy & artsy, with a lot of cute cafes & restaurants. Jay and I stopped in at the Kukje Gallery and the Hyundai Gallery, and my favorite was the Wook Kyung Choi exhibit at the Kukje, a Korean artist known for her abstract expressionism. 
3. There are lots of temples to check out in Seoul, but our favorite was the Jogyesa Temple, a beautiful Buddhist temple in the center of the city (that's pretty cool to witness too - a temple nestled amidst Seoul's skyscrapers!). The temple is near Insadong, and the paper lantern colors are just stunning. 
4. If you're into "temple food" post-Jogyesa and want to stay in tranquil mode, head over to Baru Gongyang, where a pre-meal chant is followed by a vegetarian meal in a private room. I should note that we did not go here (it was recommended by NYT 36 Hours), but instead wandered over to the very kitschy & cute Miss Lee's Cafe also in Insadong (we saw a lot of school kids when we went for lunch, which speaks to the cuteness), where your lunch comes in a lunch box. I know. Kitschy. But the food was cheap & yum & simple (I'm fairly sure my lunchbox just contained spam, egg, kimchi & rice), and the place itself was adorable.  
5. One of our favorite neighborhoods was Hongdae, and it's a fun spot to walk around, pop into cafes, shop at street stalls, and hang out. Our first and favorite meal in Seoul was in Hongdae, but a bit off the beaten path (literally and figuratively). This spot was a little tough to find, but it was mentioned by the NYT and Eat Your Kimchi, and is called Namul Meongneun Gom, which translates to "Bear Who Eats Greens" or "Veggie Eating Bear." The place itself is an oasis amid loud & trendy Hongdae, and is housed in a restored traditional Korean hanok. The food was...AMAZING (it is depicted in the main photo for this guide) - with ingredients all sourced from local farmers, and an emphasis on fresh vegetables. I highly highly recommend finding this spot!
6. Also in Hongdae, Jay and I decided to visit another themed cafe (if you remember in our Tokyo guide, I mentioned a maid cafe). East Asia loves its themed cafes! THIS TIME, we went the animal route, and decided to pay a visit to the Thanks Nature Cafe, home to Lala and Lulu, two very adorable sheep. We liked this spot because the animals are well taken care of, and after you order your drink, you can hang with them! (Other spots to check out in Hongdae: The Beastro and Magpie Brewing Co. for craft beer)
7. When in Seoul, eat lots of street food, and head over to the Gwangjang Market, one of the oldest markets in the city (apparently a century old!). Be brave and bold in trying your Korean street food, is all I gots to say.
8. Itaewon is a very expat-friendly neighborhood and is close to the U.S. military base, which is why you'll find a lot of "Koreanized" American food here (not sure that's a word, but you get what I mean). Itaewon used to be the red light district, but has since become a lot more hip & cool (and less gritty). We came here for Korean-Mexican one night at Vatos Urban Tacos, but also wanted to check out Rye Post for bulgogi cheese steak (!) and Southside Parlor for cocktails. It's a fun and lively hood with lots going on, so I'd recommend wandering around here.
9. Another area that's very hip and cool (and close to Itaewon) that our friends took us to was HaeBangChon (HBC). There are a lot of very hip(ster) bars and restaurants here, and though I cannot remember the name of which bar we landed up at (I surrendered my itinerary to people who actually live in Seoul), here's a great guide to the hood. Also, a bar called Olde Knives comes highly recommended by our friend Garrett.
10. When in Seoul, I was most struck by the modern design & architecture. That is most manifested via the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, which opened in 2014 and was designed by Zara Hadid. I'd recommend visiting DDP, (it's beautiful by night as well!), and then getting some shopping done at a nearby department store, because who goes to Korea and DOESN'T BUY KOREAN BEAUTY PRODUCTS?! Come on. (For the record, I bought a ton of Saem sheet masks, and also a snail face wash, which sounds hella gross, but actually is so amazing that I bought it again on Amazon). Speaking of well-designed plazas/museums, I also loved Stradeum, a new museum dedicated entirely to music. The place is unique and very cool to spend an afternoon in (it also boasts a cool rooftop!). 
11. So while you could eat bibimbap for days in Seoul, the city's food scene is actually really amazing and there are a ton of great restaurants to check out - including Sous Marin (French), Epicerie Collage and Mingles, one of the world's 50 best restaurants (make sure to make a reservation). We were celebrating our wedding anniversary while in Seoul, so we went with Jungsik for a fancy night out in Gangnam (remember the Psy song?). The food was "modern Korean fine dining" and our experience there was amazing. Highly recommend for a fancy dinner. 

Other spots we didn't get to, but so wanted to: Anthracite Coffee Roasters (their Hapjeong store is in an old shoe factory), Isaac Toast (a famous stand that serves breakfast, but the line was always insanely long), and the very hip Common Ground complex, built from 200 shipping containers and hosting very cool Korean fashion brands.

Phew! We did a lot for just a few days Seoul! We also, as I mentioned above, made it to the border between North & South Korea, aka the demilitarized zone, or the DMZ. I'd recommend this experience and here are my tips below:

1. Do you research before you pick your tour.  We went with Koridoor Tours, which runs the DMZ/JSA tour with the U.S. Services Organization (USO), because it came highly recommended. We went with the half day tour, which I'd recommend since the main thing you really want to see is the JSA (Joint Security Area).
2. The best part of the tour is the JSA. Yeah, the tunnels are cool, and the observatory is interesting for its history, but really, if you go to the DMZ, you'll want to get to the JSA. That is the border between North & South, where you can see the soldiers staring each other down. You kind of step into North Korea, and you can also hear the propaganda music coming from the North Korean side. I found this part so fascinating, especially because this part of the tour was led by a U.S. soldier - so you also understood the dynamics among the three countries - U.S., South Korea & North Korea. Not every tour includes the JSA, so be sure to double check!
3. The cafeteria food as part of the tour is just ok, (not bad), so either mentally prep for that or bring your own food, and wear good walking shoes, especially for the tunnel part - it's a workout!

Hope you enjoy Seoul! It's an amazing place, and witnessing North Korea (from the border) in comparison, it's truly fascinating to see what a country looks like that's frozen in time versus one that has leapfrogged into ultra modern times. Have fun!